The Italian Manicure Creates The Illusion Of Longer Nails — Without Extensions

There are some things Italians just do better: food, shoes, handbags, and supercars, to name a few. But if social media is anything to go by, this week it’s all about another Italian export: the Italian manicure.

Before we get into things, a caveat: all nails are beautiful nails. But if you have short nail beds and you’re on a quest to make them appear longer, the Italian nail-painting technique might intrigue you.

The Italian manicure — a smart nail-painting technique — achieved viral status in 2022, thanks to manicurist Alexandra Teleki, aka @thehotblendofficial on TikTok. In a video with hundreds of thousands of views, the expert demonstrates the hack, which she says is usually done on nails that are short, square, or squoval (square oval). “It can be used for a full-color classic manicure or painted tips,” says Teleki.

What is the Italian manicure?

When painting a full color, Teleki gets as close as possible to the cuticle without touching the skin and uses a thin nail brush soaked with nail polish remover to create space between each side of the nail and the polish. While minuscule, the negative space at each edge gives the illusion of elongated nail beds, making the nail look a lot lengthier than it is.

@thehotblendofficial Italian Nail Paiting Technique 🇮🇹🫶#buildergel #biab #gelnails #nailtech ♬ Sky Aesthetic – Tollan Kim

Teleki says she first saw this method in Milan years ago, although it wasn’t as trendy back then. “I’ve also heard it referred to as the Mediterranean technique,” she told R29. London-based nail artist and technician Metta Francis of Nails by Mets says she was taught this trick during her original nail training over 10 years ago. “It can be done with traditional nail polish and gel polish to create the illusion of a more slender and longer nail bed,” she says.

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A post shared by Metta (Mets) • Mobile nails & nail art in London 💅🏽 (@nailsbymets)

How can you make short nails look longer?

Francis explains that the Italian nail-painting technique is most effective on wider nails which “fan out” or have sides that are not straight or parallel. “It can work really well on nails that are short,” adds Francis, “but it’s not necessarily limited to a specific nail shape.” For example, she says it can work with both rounded and square-oval nails. “Most manicurists will have this skill in their back pocket, if needed.”

Teleki adds that this method is especially popular among clients with a busy lifestyle or a job where long nails might be impractical.

Details

Can the Italian manicure be done using any type of polish?

Yes, the look can be achieved by using traditional gel or regular nail polish. On TikTok, Teleki uses builder gel polish or BIAB, which is more durable than your typical nail polish. “With this gel, you need to ensure that you avoid any heat (such as long, hot showers or baths, saunas, and so on) for the first 24 hours, as the gel takes time to fully set,” says Teleki. This, she adds, is one of the main reasons that gels might not last as long as they should. It’s also important to keep your cuticles and hands hydrated using oils and hand creams daily, says Teleki. This will help to prevent lifting and will keep the manicure in perfect condition.

Are there any downsides to the Italian manicure?

While Francis thinks the Italian manicure is a good technique for some clients, most will still prefer full-coverage color. “Sometimes, not painting up to the side walls can look unfinished,” says Francis, adding, “As the nail starts to grow out — unless you’re oiling with cuticle oil regularly — it can start to look untidy at the side walls. What with that extra space, clients might also be more tempted to pick or peel the polish.”

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A post shared by Metta (Mets) • Mobile nails & nail art in London 💅🏽 (@nailsbymets)

How can you do the Italian manicure at home?

For the very best results, visit your local nail technician, who is likely well-versed in this nail-painting method. If you’d rather give this trick a go yourself, pick up a traditional nail polish, which can be removed with nail-polish remover. Nail experts like Francis aren’t big on DIY gel polish for various reasons, including the potential for developing allergies if the gel touches the skin over time.

First, apply a base coat — especially if you’re using a darker shade. R29 loves Essie Here To Stay Base Coat Long Lasting Nail Polish. Nail artists recommend the ‘three stripes’ nail-painting trick: one swipe down the center to start, and one at each side to join up the color. Don’t worry if the polish ends up too close to the edge. Invest in a tiny reusable nail art brush, like this one from Amazon, and dip it in polish remover to gently clean up the edges and to create that negative space. Try Ulta Beauty Collection Soak Off Nail Polish Remover, which removes polish quickly and effectively.

Lastly, finish with a high-shine top coat to seal in the color. You can take this right up to the edge and over the negative space. Try OPI Rapidry Top Coat or Essie Speed Setter Ultra Fast Dry Top Coat, both of which cut down drying time.

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Originally published at www.refinery29.com.

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